Reptile & Amphibian Care Guide

Bearded dragons are one of the most popular pet reptiles — and for good reason. They're personable, relatively hardy, and can form real bonds with their owners. But they require precise environmental management to stay healthy:

• Temperature Gradients: A proper basking spot of 100-110°F on the warm side and 80-85°F on the cool side. Nighttime temps should not drop below 70°F. I monitor these carefully with digital thermometers during every care visit.
• UVB Lighting: Full-spectrum UVB is essential for calcium metabolism. Without adequate UVB exposure, bearded dragons are at serious risk for Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) — one of the most common and preventable health issues I observed as a veterinary assistant.
• Diet: Juveniles need 70-80% insects (dusted with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements) and 20-30% fresh greens. Adults shift to roughly 80% greens and 20% insects. I prepare species-appropriate meals and monitor appetite closely.
• Signs to Watch: Lethargy, black beard stress marks, sunken eyes, rubbery jaw (MBD indicator), loss of appetite, and irregular shedding.

Geckos are diverse — a leopard gecko's needs differ significantly from a crested gecko's. Through my veterinary training, I've learned the key differences in their care:

• Leopard Geckos: Require belly heat (under-tank heater) with a warm side of 88-92°F and a cool side around 75°F. Low humidity (30-40%). Insectivores — crickets, mealworms, and dubia roaches dusted with supplements.
• Crested Geckos: Thrive at room temperature (72-78°F) with moderate humidity (60-80%). Misting 1-2 times daily is essential. Primarily eat prepared crested gecko diet (CGD) with occasional insects as treats.
• Shedding: Incomplete sheds are a common issue, especially on toes and tail tips. Retained shed should be checked regularly, as constricted circulation from stuck shed can cause permanent damage.
• Signs to Watch: Dropped tail (stress response), stuck shed, sunken eyes, weight loss, and refusal to eat.

Snakes are low-maintenance compared to some reptiles, but their environmental needs are non-negotiable:

• Thermoregulation: Snakes are ectotherms and depend entirely on their enclosure for temperature regulation. A warm side of 88-92°F and a cool side of 75-80°F allows them to self-regulate. I verify temperatures at every visit.
• Humidity: Ball pythons need 60-70% humidity (higher during shedding). Corn and king snakes need 40-60%. Improper humidity leads to respiratory infections and stuck sheds.
• Feeding Schedule: Juveniles eat every 5-7 days; adults every 10-14 days depending on species and size. I follow your established feeding schedule and monitor for regurgitation or refusal.
• Handling: Snakes need 48 hours after feeding before handling. I respect your snake's comfort level and watch for defensive postures (S-coil, hissing, tail rattling).
• Signs to Watch: Wheezing or bubbling (respiratory infection), retained eye caps after shedding, scale rot, stargazing, and prolonged food refusal.

Turtles and tortoises are long-lived pets with very different needs depending on whether they're aquatic, semi-aquatic, or terrestrial:

• Aquatic Turtles: Need clean, filtered water (partial water changes weekly), a basking platform with UVB lighting at 85-90°F, and water temperature of 75-80°F. Shell health depends on both water quality and UV exposure.
• Tortoises: Require appropriate substrate for burrowing, a warm basking area (90-95°F), and a cooler retreat. UVB is essential for shell and bone health. Diet varies by species — grasses and hay for grazers (sulcatas), leafy greens for others.
• Shell Health: I check for soft spots, discoloration, and pyramiding (raised scutes from improper diet or humidity). Shell problems often develop slowly, so regular observation is critical.
• Signs to Watch: Soft shell, swollen eyes (vitamin A deficiency), runny nose, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

Axolotls are fully aquatic salamanders that are sensitive to water quality and temperature. From my clinical training, here are the essentials for keeping them healthy:

• Water Temperature: Must stay between 60-68°F — axolotls are cold-water animals. Temperatures above 72°F cause dangerous stress and can suppress their immune system, which is especially important to monitor during San Francisco's warmer months.
• Water Quality: Ammonia and nitrites must be at 0 ppm; nitrates below 20 ppm. Regular partial water changes (20% weekly) with dechlorinated water are essential.
• Diet: Primarily earthworms (nightcrawlers) — the most nutritious staple. Can also eat bloodworms and specially formulated pellets. Feed 2-3 times per week for adults.
• Substrate: Fine sand or bare bottom only. Gravel is a serious impaction risk — axolotls vacuum-feed and will swallow small stones.
• Signs to Watch: Curled gill filaments (stress or poor water quality), floating, loss of appetite, fungal patches, and gill deterioration.

Frogs and newts have permeable skin that makes them exceptionally sensitive to environmental conditions. From my veterinary training, here are the care fundamentals:

• Humidity: Most species need 60-80% humidity maintained through misting, live plants, and proper ventilation. Monitoring humidity with a hygrometer and misting enclosures regularly is essential.
• Temperature: Varies by species — tropical frogs (tree frogs, pacman frogs) prefer 75-82°F, while temperate newts thrive at 65-72°F. Overheating is a common and dangerous mistake.
• Water Quality: All water must be dechlorinated — chlorine and chloramine are toxic to amphibians. Semi-aquatic species need clean, filtered water with regular partial changes.
• Diet: Primarily live insects (crickets, fruit flies for small species, earthworms for larger ones), dusted with calcium supplements. Pacman frogs can also eat appropriately sized mice as they grow.
• Handling: Should be minimized. Amphibians absorb substances through their skin, so hands must be clean, wet, and free of soap residue, lotions, or hand sanitizer.
• Signs to Watch: Skin lesions or redness, bloating (edema), lethargy, refusal to eat, and abnormal posture.