Guinea pigs are prey animals — which means they instinctively hide signs of illness until they can’t anymore. By the time a guinea pig looks visibly sick, the problem may already be serious. As an exotic veterinary assistant, I’ve seen how quickly things can escalate when early signs are missed.

Here are the five warning signs every guinea pig owner should know.

1. Labored Breathing or Crusty Nose

Upper respiratory infections (URIs) are one of the most common and dangerous guinea pig illnesses. If your guinea pig is wheezing, clicking while breathing, has discharge from the nose or eyes, or seems lethargic, get them to an exotic vet immediately. URIs can become fatal within days if untreated.

What to watch for:

• Audible clicking or wheezing when breathing
• Discharge from the nose or eyes
• Sneezing more than occasionally
• Puffed-up fur and reluctance to move

Prevention tip: Dusty bedding is a major contributor to respiratory issues in guinea pigs. Switching to fleece cage liners eliminates airborne dust and wood phenols entirely.

2. Not Eating or Drinking

Guinea pigs should be eating constantly — their digestive systems depend on continuous intake of hay and fiber. If your guinea pig stops eating for more than 12 hours, this is an emergency. GI stasis (a shutdown of the digestive tract) can be fatal.

What to watch for:

• Refusing hay, pellets, or vegetables
• Smaller or absent droppings
• Hunched posture or teeth grinding (a sign of pain)
• Weight loss — weigh your guinea pig weekly to catch gradual changes

3. Swollen or Bleeding Feet (Bumblefoot)

Bumblefoot (pododermatitis) is a bacterial infection of the foot pads caused by prolonged contact with wet, rough, or dirty surfaces. It starts as redness or calluses on the bottom of the feet and can progress to open sores and deep infection.

What to watch for:

• Redness, swelling, or scabs on the bottom of the feet
• Limping or reluctance to walk
• Sores that don’t heal

Prevention tip: Keep your guinea pig’s living surface clean and dry. Our Clinical Series fleece liners wick moisture away from the surface, significantly reducing bumblefoot risk compared to disposable bedding.

4. Drooling or Difficulty Eating

Guinea pig teeth grow continuously throughout their lives. Without enough hay to wear them down, teeth can become overgrown, misaligned, or develop painful spurs that cut into the cheeks and tongue. This is called malocclusion.

What to watch for:

• Drooling or wet chin
• Dropping food while trying to eat
• Preferring soft foods over hay
• Weight loss despite interest in food

This requires a vet visit — overgrown teeth need to be filed or trimmed under sedation by an exotic vet experienced with guinea pig dentistry.

5. Lethargy or Unusual Behavior

You know your guinea pig’s personality better than anyone. If a normally active pig suddenly becomes quiet, hides more than usual, or stops responding to the sound of a treat bag, something may be wrong.

What to watch for:

• Sitting puffed up in one spot
• Not reacting to food or interaction
• Tilted head (possible ear infection)
• Excessive scratching (mites or fungal infection)

When in Doubt, Call Your Vet

Guinea pigs decline quickly. If something feels off, don’t wait — call an exotic veterinarian who specializes in small mammals. A regular dog-and-cat vet may not have the training to properly diagnose guinea pig illnesses.

Need someone who understands guinea pig health to care for your pets while you’re away? Learn about our in-home exotic pet sitting and boarding services in San Francisco. Browse our Small Pet Resources for more care recommendations.

When an exotic pet has a medical emergency, time is critical. Unlike dogs and cats, exotic animals hide illness until they’re in serious trouble — and most emergency animal hospitals aren’t equipped to treat them. As an exotic veterinary assistant in San Francisco, here are the emergency signs every exotic pet owner should recognize.

Reptile Emergencies

Bearded Dragons

• Mouth gaping with mucus — respiratory infection, needs antibiotics immediately
• Paralysis or trembling limbs — likely metabolic bone disease (MBD) from calcium/UVB deficiency
• Prolapse (tissue protruding from the vent) — keep moist with sugar water and get to a vet
• Burns from direct contact with a heat source — common with unregulated heat lamps

Snakes

• Wheezing, bubbling, or open-mouth breathing — respiratory infection
• Regurgitation — do not attempt to feed again for 10-14 days, and consult a vet
• Retained eye caps after shedding — can lead to infection if not addressed
• Swelling or discoloration along the body — possible abscess or internal issue

Geckos

• Dropped tail — not immediately life-threatening but indicates extreme stress. Monitor for infection at the wound site
• Stuck shed on toes — can cut off circulation and cause toe loss if not removed carefully
• Sudden weight loss — may indicate parasites or cryptosporidiosis

Turtles and Tortoises

• Soft shell — calcium deficiency or metabolic bone disease
• Swollen, closed eyes — vitamin A deficiency or infection
• Bubbling from the nose while swimming — respiratory infection
• Shell fractures or cracks — need veterinary repair

For species-specific temperature and care requirements, see my Reptile & Amphibian Care Guide.

Bird Emergencies

• Sitting on the bottom of the cage, fluffed up — birds hide illness until they physically can’t perch. This is always urgent
• Labored or tail-bobbing breathing — respiratory distress
• Bleeding — birds have limited blood volume. Even small amounts of bleeding need attention
• Regurgitation onto surfaces (not feeding behavior) — potential crop infection
• Sudden feather loss or self-mutilation — stress, infection, or hormonal crisis

Important: Birds deteriorate extremely fast. If your bird looks sick, don’t wait until morning — seek emergency care the same day.

Small Mammal Emergencies

Guinea Pigs

• Not eating for 12+ hours — GI stasis is life-threatening
• Audible wheezing or clicking — upper respiratory infection
• Bloody urine — urinary stones or infection
• Head tilt — ear infection or neurological issue
• Sudden paralysis of hind legs — possible scurvy (vitamin C deficiency) or spinal issue

Rabbits

• No droppings for 12+ hours — GI stasis, the #1 rabbit emergency
• Grinding teeth loudly — a sign of severe pain
• Fly strike (maggots in soiled fur) — life-threatening, immediate vet care required
• Sudden head tilt — E. cuniculi or inner ear infection
• Labored breathing — pasteurella or other respiratory infection

Chinchillas

• Heat stroke (over 80°F) — chinchillas can’t tolerate warm temperatures. Cool them with a fan (not water) and get to a vet
• Drooling or wet chin — dental malocclusion
• Fur slip (large patches of fur falling out) — extreme stress response

What to Do in an Emergency

1. Stay calm — your stress will stress your pet further
2. Assess the situation — is the animal breathing? Conscious? Bleeding?
3. Contact an exotic vet — not all vets see exotics. Have your vet’s number saved in your phone before an emergency happens
4. Keep the animal warm and quiet during transport (unless it’s heat stroke)
5. Do not attempt home remedies without vet guidance — what works for dogs and cats can be deadly for exotics

Find an Exotic Vet Before You Need One

The worst time to search for an exotic vet is during an emergency. I maintain a directory of exotic pet veterinarians in San Francisco and the Bay Area — save it now so you’re prepared.

Need an experienced exotic pet sitter who can recognize these warning signs? I provide in-home exotic pet care and boarding in San Francisco with veterinary-level attention. My background as an exotic vet assistant means I know what to watch for — and when to act.

Rabbits are wonderful companions — curious, affectionate, and full of personality. But they’re also frequently misunderstood. As someone who shares my home with Chungus and Puppy Dog (my inseparable bonded bunnies) and volunteers as a Medical Assistant at the House Rabbit Society where I administer RHDV vaccinations, here’s what every rabbit owner should know.

Diet: 80% Hay, Every Day

The single most important part of your rabbit’s diet is unlimited fresh timothy hay. Hay keeps their continuously growing teeth worn down and their digestive system moving.

Daily diet breakdown:

• Hay (80%): Timothy hay for adults, alfalfa hay for babies under 6 months
• Fresh greens (15%): Romaine, cilantro, parsley, basil — about 1 packed cup per 2 lbs of body weight
• Pellets (5%): Plain timothy-based pellets, no seeds or dried fruit mixed in — about 1/4 cup per 5 lbs of body weight
• Treats: Small amounts of fruit (apple, banana, berries) a few times per week

Avoid: Iceberg lettuce, potatoes, beans, bread, cereal, yogurt drops, and seed mixes marketed as “rabbit food.”

For hay recommendations, check out Small Pet Select — my bunnies and I love their timothy hay and Flower Power Herb Blend.

Housing: Space Matters

Rabbits need far more space than pet stores suggest. A rabbit should have an enclosure that’s at least 4x their body length — and they need several hours of supervised exercise (free-roaming) daily.

Housing options:

• C&C cage panels — modular, spacious, and customizable
• X-pen (exercise pen) — easy to set up and gives plenty of room
• Free-roam room — the gold standard, if your home is rabbit-proofed

Rabbit-proofing essentials:

• Cover all electrical cords (rabbits chew everything)
• Block access behind furniture where they can get stuck
• Remove toxic houseplants (lilies, pothos, philodendrons)
• Protect baseboards with plastic guards or bitter spray

RHDV: The Vaccination Every Rabbit Owner Should Know About

Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV2) is a highly contagious, often fatal virus that has been spreading across the United States, including California. It can be transmitted through direct contact with infected rabbits, contaminated surfaces, insects, and even on clothing or shoes.

Key facts:

• RHDV2 has a mortality rate of up to 90% in unvaccinated rabbits
• Rabbits can die within 1-3 days of showing symptoms — sometimes with no symptoms at all
• The virus can survive on surfaces for months
• Both indoor and outdoor rabbits are at risk

The vaccine: The RHDV2 vaccine (Medgene) is available through exotic veterinarians and organizations like the House Rabbit Society. Rabbits need an initial dose followed by a booster, then annual revaccination.

I administer RHDV vaccinations as part of my volunteer work at the House Rabbit Society in Richmond, California. If your rabbit hasn’t been vaccinated, I strongly recommend scheduling an appointment with an exotic vet in the Bay Area.

Common Health Issues to Watch For

GI Stasis

The most common emergency in rabbits. If your rabbit stops eating, has small or no droppings, or sits hunched up, this is urgent — get to a vet within hours.

Dental Problems

Like guinea pigs, rabbit teeth grow continuously. Overgrown molars cause pain, drooling, and appetite loss. Yearly dental checkups with an exotic vet are essential.

Fly Strike

Especially in warm weather, flies can lay eggs in soiled fur (particularly around the rear). This is life-threatening and requires immediate veterinary care. Keep your rabbit’s living area clean and check their underside daily in summer.

Head Tilt

A sudden head tilt can indicate an inner ear infection or E. cuniculi (a parasite). This needs prompt veterinary treatment but has a good prognosis if caught early.

Bonding: Why Pairs Are Better

Rabbits are social animals and thrive with a bonded companion. A single rabbit can become lonely and depressed. Bonding takes patience — it should be done in neutral territory and supervised until the rabbits are comfortable together.

My bunnies Chungus and Puppy Dog are bonded and completely inseparable. If you’re thinking about getting a second rabbit, I highly recommend it — but do your research on proper bonding technique first, or consult a rabbit-savvy rescue for guidance.

Need someone who understands rabbit health — including GI stasis monitoring, medication administration, and RHDV awareness — to care for your bunnies while you’re away? Learn about our in-home pet sitting and rabbit boarding in San Francisco.